What's Going on This Summer
Plans to go on a "Sea Trial" Cruise
At the start of the summer I had plans to go on a summer cruise to Nantucket. Several friends said they might be interested. Of course as with my experience with most of my racing crews when I raced Starwood, there was a very low dependability factor, or at least that was my somewhat autistic interpretation. I'm finding that increasingly, people say one thing and then do another. So other than a short cruise to Essex CT., it has been day sailing.
Evaluation of the Solar Panels to Date
One of the things that I indicated in my last post was that I would give an account of how the first really new item that I've added to the boat is doing. That item was 3 solar panels totaling a theoretical 400 watts. One, a 120 watt, is mounted on the boat's hard dodger. The other two, at a 140 watts each, are mounted on Calypso's bimini.
These panels are made of amorphous (thin film) silicon. This type is not very efficient at converting sunshine into electrical power. They are mounted relatively flat and the panel on the dodger is usually shaded by the boom and furled sail. As all the gurus point out, Solar Panels will produce their maximum (rated) wattage only when they aimed directly at the sun and especially when the sun is directly overhead.
So I expected that I would get between half and a quarter of the wattage. The reasons are the current latitude of the Calypso, (and consequently the angle of the sun), the fact that one of the panels is not likely to generate much wattage due to shadowing by the sail, and the fact that the boat is moored and consequently, the bimini panels may be facing the sun one minute and away the next.
Having said all that, I've found that so far in the first month, I'm getting well over 1 KW-hour per day. On cloudy/rainy days I still get over 300 w-hours. What this means is that I can keep the refrigerator, the navigational systems, the VHF, and the lights operating without using the engine and its 100 amp alternator to recharge the batteries.
Or so I thought. I found that after 3 to 5 days of very dreary conditions, that the batteries were so low that the engine would turn over to start. Fortunately for me, the sun came out about then and in 1/2 an hour the batteries had enough juice to start the engine. It also means that I will need to have automated isolation switch so that I can charge both the house and the starter batteries and still keep the starter isolated from everything else.
After checking and rereading Nigal Calder's book and the web, I found that Blue Sea Systems has a pair of relatively inexpensive devices that provides the isolation. While they comes as a kit ("Add a Battery"), I found that buying them separately was less expensive. These will be installed this winter.
This looks to be an ideal solution for using the house batteries to run the refrigerator at anchor (and the instruments while sailing) and yet at the same time keeping the starter battery charged.
Notice that the new switch has two positions, On and Off (with an emergency combine).
These panels are made of amorphous (thin film) silicon. This type is not very efficient at converting sunshine into electrical power. They are mounted relatively flat and the panel on the dodger is usually shaded by the boom and furled sail. As all the gurus point out, Solar Panels will produce their maximum (rated) wattage only when they aimed directly at the sun and especially when the sun is directly overhead.
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| One Aft Solar Panel |
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| Showing the Dodger and Aft Solar Panel |
Having said all that, I've found that so far in the first month, I'm getting well over 1 KW-hour per day. On cloudy/rainy days I still get over 300 w-hours. What this means is that I can keep the refrigerator, the navigational systems, the VHF, and the lights operating without using the engine and its 100 amp alternator to recharge the batteries.
Or so I thought. I found that after 3 to 5 days of very dreary conditions, that the batteries were so low that the engine would turn over to start. Fortunately for me, the sun came out about then and in 1/2 an hour the batteries had enough juice to start the engine. It also means that I will need to have automated isolation switch so that I can charge both the house and the starter batteries and still keep the starter isolated from everything else.
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| The Current Switch |
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| The New Switch and Automatic Charge Relay |
This looks to be an ideal solution for using the house batteries to run the refrigerator at anchor (and the instruments while sailing) and yet at the same time keeping the starter battery charged.
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| The New Switch |
Odds and Ends
There are a number of odds and ends that I have worked, or am working on.
A Boom Restrainer
Both at the mooring and when sailing without the main, which is much of the time when the wind is above 15 kt, the boom swings and sways incessantly. Since it weighs a significant amount--I haven't weighed it yet, but having between 50 and 100 lbs of about a 20 foot boom swinging back and forth three feet or more as you sail or sitting at a mooring is not my idea of fun. So, I've rigged a boom restrainer, though that might not be the proper nautical term (It does serve part of the functions of a boom crutch, but that doesn't seem to be the proper term either).
In the center is a boom bale, on the boom. To this I connected a line with a block (with cleat) at either end and attached to another block creating a 2 to 1 purchase.
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| This is my solution, my Boom Restrainer |
The Fridge
From my reading and from my observations all boats, refrigerators are a constant problem and the most common drag on the electrical system. The causes are poor seals and/or poor insulation.I think I've resolved the major problems with the frig on Calypso. As I discussed in earlier posts, the refrigerator was not working when the boat was surveyed, so Maine Maritime Academy agreed to have the boatyard in Salem MA repair it. Well actually, they fixed it...meaning that when we left Salem the frdige was working.
By the time Milford Boat Works pulled the boat, it was working poorly. By the next spring, it was hardly cooling at all, and by the late summer of 2015 it was not working at all, even though I tried to add refrigerant--which seemed to be the problem.
So replacing the entire refrigerator cooling system was the only choice.
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| The old Frdge Cooling Unit |
Replacing the unit was frustrating because the supplier's website had the wrong unit attached to the model number--it was water cooled instead of air cooled and wouldn't fit in the space. After a long frustrating process I got it straightened out--the supplier finally admitted that their website was wrong.
Well the unit works, but I was have a good deal of frost buildup in the freezer section--not good. So I had the seals replaced with seals from Tartan (Calypso's builder).
Additionally, one of the doors did not seem to be closing tightly enough; it does now.
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| The Fridge (with doors open) Showing the Seals |
MMSI/DSC/AIS and Safety
Having spent 55 of my 64 years of sailing, racing in club or one design races in small boats, I had little idea of the current complexity of systems on cruising boats. I found out.
The first thing that I wanted to do was to get my Digital Selective Calling (DSC) set up on the VHF radio. I wanted this so that I could push a button in case there could be a very serious problem on the boat. Getting this set up requires two things, linking the radio to the GPS and getting an MMSI (Mobile Maritime Ship's Identifier) number.
The first item was relatively easy even for such a neophyte at electrical hardware as I am. My radio is an Icom 402. It has an older protocol NMEA 0183 communication link for connection to a GPS. My two Garmin 741xs, each have connections for NMEA 0183, so I lucked out. After several calls to both Garmin and Icom I finally figured out which wires had to be connected. I used a terminal block to connect them rather than attempting to solder them together to to crimp them. When I was finished it actually worked. I can see Calypso's GPS position on the radio.
To get an international MMSI number requires I found that first I had to get a Ships Station License from the FCC. The reason for getting from the FCC is that it is the only way to get a license good internationally.
Now that I have Calypso's MMSI number I completed getting the DSC working and I can get an Automated Identification System (AIS). At the recommendation of a number of people I'm probably a Vesper XB6000 unit.
The first thing that I wanted to do was to get my Digital Selective Calling (DSC) set up on the VHF radio. I wanted this so that I could push a button in case there could be a very serious problem on the boat. Getting this set up requires two things, linking the radio to the GPS and getting an MMSI (Mobile Maritime Ship's Identifier) number.
The first item was relatively easy even for such a neophyte at electrical hardware as I am. My radio is an Icom 402. It has an older protocol NMEA 0183 communication link for connection to a GPS. My two Garmin 741xs, each have connections for NMEA 0183, so I lucked out. After several calls to both Garmin and Icom I finally figured out which wires had to be connected. I used a terminal block to connect them rather than attempting to solder them together to to crimp them. When I was finished it actually worked. I can see Calypso's GPS position on the radio.
To get an international MMSI number requires I found that first I had to get a Ships Station License from the FCC. The reason for getting from the FCC is that it is the only way to get a license good internationally.
Now that I have Calypso's MMSI number I completed getting the DSC working and I can get an Automated Identification System (AIS). At the recommendation of a number of people I'm probably a Vesper XB6000 unit.
The Retractable Bowsprit and the Roller Furling Spinnaker
Ever since I added (upgraded) the spinnaker to a roller furling code 1 I've had problems with getting enough tension on the torsion line on the sail to have the sail furl properly. First, it turned out that when I added sufficient tension, the carbon fiber bowsprit bent up at least 6". In bending up it reduced the tension on the line the sail furls around--so the sail furled improperly.
To remedy this in the winter of 2015-16 I had the Milford Boat Works add a bobstay to hold the bowsprit in place. When I raised and tensioned the sail, the bowsprit still bent up. So during the rest of the summer and in the spring of 2017 I worked on adjusting the bobstay's length. Also, I worked on a method so that the bobstay would not drag in the water when retracted. This is shown in the following two pictures.
When the sailmaker and I tried out the reefing this summer (2017) we found that I still could not get enough tension on the line to have it furl properly. And we also found the reason. The line holding the bowsprit out was stretching about 9" under the load, which meant the bowsprit was retracting about 4"; that is enough to release the torsion line tension to the point that the spinnaker doesn't furl properly.
So I had the bowsprit "out" line replaced with a dyneema line. Also, I had additional added to ensure that it is easy to get the bowsprit all the way out. This is shown in the picture below.
When the sailmaker and I tested this system the spinnaker rolled perfectly. Now the only problem is that the new out line has so much friction that I will need to add purchase to pull the bowsprit back in--a relatively minor problem for next spring.
To remedy this in the winter of 2015-16 I had the Milford Boat Works add a bobstay to hold the bowsprit in place. When I raised and tensioned the sail, the bowsprit still bent up. So during the rest of the summer and in the spring of 2017 I worked on adjusting the bobstay's length. Also, I worked on a method so that the bobstay would not drag in the water when retracted. This is shown in the following two pictures.
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| The Bowsprit Extended (bobstay almost right) |
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| The Bowsprit Retracted (the bobstay retractor works) |
So I had the bowsprit "out" line replaced with a dyneema line. Also, I had additional added to ensure that it is easy to get the bowsprit all the way out. This is shown in the picture below.
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| The white line is the new Bowsprit out line. |
The Refit
The refitting of Lisa-E into Calypso started almost as soon as I acquired by boat from the Maine Maritime Academy on a charter with option to buy after 3 years. Now I'm her owner.
History of the Refit
The history of the refit to date is a history of fixing a problem, then repairing or replacing the same component or system. I've gone into detail on several previous posts about the problems and what I've to repair the problems.
Problems that I resolved or attempted to resolve included:
Problems that I resolved or attempted to resolve included:
2014-15
- Repairing the rudder (a continuing problem)
- Repairing the alternator belt (a continuing problem)
- Replacing the charger/inverter
- Replacing the alternator's external regulator
- Adding a mainsail cover
- Replacing macerator and hoses
- Replacing the LPG sensor under the stove/oven
- Replacing all of the batteries
- Replacing the seals on the saildrive (a continuing problem)
- and many other smaller items
2015-16
- Repairing the swim platform actuator
- Replacing the alternator belt with a serpentine belt
- Repairing the jib furling system
- Replacing the bow pulpit (that was badly damaged by a freak storm in Mount Sinai Harbor)
- Adding a bobstay to the retractable bowsprit to (hopefully) hold it in place to get the spinnaker roller furling system working properly (see above)
- Replacing the refrigeration cooling unit (see above)
- Repairing the saildrive again. The drive was badly serviced previously.
- Adding a cable to enable the Garmin 741xs to display the radar image at the helm
- And many other minor repairs
2016-17
- Adding Solar Panels (see above)
- Replacing the Bimini
- Adding battery and solar panel monitors
- Replacing the seals for the refrigerator (see above)
- Starting refinishing the companion way woodwork
- Linking the autopilot to the GPS and testing
- Setting up the radio to send DSC messages using the MMSI number
- And many other minor repairs
Planned Work for 2017-18
All of the work cited above, was in fact the start of a complete refit of the boat. While there will always be maintenance, repairs, and upgrades, with the completion of the work I plan for this winter and next spring, Calypso should be ready to go blue water sailing again and the crew should be safe.
Rudder
When I acquired the boat, its rudder was full of water. This is not good. While Maine Maritime Academy promise that the boatyard in Salem MA would repair it as part of the acquisition of the boat, Larry, the manager at Milford Boat Works found that the rudder was full of water...again; that, after 6 weeks.
Again in the spring of 2016 and 2017 the rudder had not drained completely before the drain plug was put in. Since, stainless steel and salt water eventually mix well with one another and since the freezing of water, even salt water inside a rudder can cause structural problems over time, I felt that it is a matter of safety repair or replace the rudder.
Next, I found out that a replacement would cost less than having the current rudder repaired. After a good deal of research and recommendations from friends, I settled on Competition Composites Inc. to build a new rudder.
This rudder has a carbon fiber frame. There are pluses and minuses.
The pluses are:
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| Spring 2015 and the rudder weeps |
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| Another spot (The brown may indicate rust) |
Next, I found out that a replacement would cost less than having the current rudder repaired. After a good deal of research and recommendations from friends, I settled on Competition Composites Inc. to build a new rudder.
This rudder has a carbon fiber frame. There are pluses and minuses.
The pluses are:
- Weight--the new rudder will weigh 100 LBS less than the old rudder (without water in it; I don't know how much it weighs with water in it).
- Closed Foam--The new rudder is made with closed foam rather than open foam. Open foam absorbs more water faster than closed foam.
- Strength--the new rudder's frame is significantly stronger than the old one
- Rusting--Carbon Fiber doesn't rust, stainless steel does
- Brittle--Carbon fiber is brittle and will break, while steel bends. When (maybe I should say if and when) the rudder runs aground, it's more likely to break off whereas steel will bend--maybe giving an opportunity to back off. This running aground comes from the experience of many cruisers. I suspect that the hydrodynamics of a bent rudder can be interesting and exciting too.
Anyway, I decided on the carbon fiber rudder. The following three pictures are my first look at it.
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| The very long shipping crate |
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| The rudder packed in its shipping gown |
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| A Detail of the rudder post and top of the rudder |
Pocket Boom
I've had only two real problems with the boom on the boat. The first is that near the clew, right over the cockpit, the sail falls off the boom and the reefing line try to trip or hang the crew.
This is difficult, but getting the sailed tied up with the sail ties is harder. The reason is that the boom is about 7' above the cockpit deck. Consequently, I have climb on the actual deck and reach way out to get the sail tied down.
It only gets worse when I put the sail cover on. Calypso and most C&C 121s have lazy jacks as you can see in the picture below This helps tremendously when bringing the mainsail in. But as you can see the sail cover zips around the lazy jacks and everything has to be adjusted.
This is difficult, but getting the sailed tied up with the sail ties is harder. The reason is that the boom is about 7' above the cockpit deck. Consequently, I have climb on the actual deck and reach way out to get the sail tied down.
It only gets worse when I put the sail cover on. Calypso and most C&C 121s have lazy jacks as you can see in the picture below This helps tremendously when bringing the mainsail in. But as you can see the sail cover zips around the lazy jacks and everything has to be adjusted.
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| The Mast showing the Lazy Jacks and Sail Cover |
However, the lazy jacks can present problems in raising the sail; like getting the battens stuck in the lazy jacks. You have to be careful to head directly into the wind with the mainsheet loose.
From all of these issues, you might think that I would get a setup for in-mast or in-boom furling. Actually, the way Calypso is configured with a special mainsail track, the fact that all lines are led into the cockpit, and the electric winch to hoist the sail, plus the cost of either system, it really makes no sense at all. Further, there is still enough of the racing sailor left in me to want to properly trim the mainsail. Neither in-mast or in-boom furling really allow that.
That leaves the pocket boom (sometimes called the Park Avenue boom). I have one on order from Tartan Yachts (actually TLC Yachts now) who made Calypso. It will be delivered in the spring.
The pocket boom is shaped like a trough into which the sail falls as it is coming down. Then I will need only to zip a cover over the top.
Sails
The sails on Calypso are 14 years old. They are worn out to the point that they cannot be trimmed in to enable the boat to point at less than 40 degrees. By the time it gets to 36 degrees it loses half its speed. The reason is that either the top or the bottom of the sails is out of trim.
This does not bode well for upwind sailing and the seams could give out in any blow. The C&C 121 was designed for close hauled sailing, that's the reason for the three spreader rig on the aluminum version of the mast (the carbon fiber version has only two). On Starwood, my previous 34' C&C, I could sail at 32 degrees and keep my speed, it was the "sweet spot".
With its deck design, Calypso should be able to do as well or better. This means that the current sails are blown out which, given their age, should be expected.
So, new sails are in order. These are 3Di cruising sails from North Sails. The construction of these sails are an outgrowth of the methods North has used to construct racing sails. These methods include making the sails on a mold using small strips of tape-like material.
The key difference between sails made for racers and cruisers is that carbon fiber and other very very low stretch materials are used for racing sails, whereas reinforced Dacron is used for cruising sails since dacron withstands sunlight much better over time than the more exotic materials. So, while I used to plan for a racing sail to last 5 years, these sails should last as long as I'm the keeper (steward) of the boat.
This does not bode well for upwind sailing and the seams could give out in any blow. The C&C 121 was designed for close hauled sailing, that's the reason for the three spreader rig on the aluminum version of the mast (the carbon fiber version has only two). On Starwood, my previous 34' C&C, I could sail at 32 degrees and keep my speed, it was the "sweet spot".
With its deck design, Calypso should be able to do as well or better. This means that the current sails are blown out which, given their age, should be expected.
So, new sails are in order. These are 3Di cruising sails from North Sails. The construction of these sails are an outgrowth of the methods North has used to construct racing sails. These methods include making the sails on a mold using small strips of tape-like material.
The key difference between sails made for racers and cruisers is that carbon fiber and other very very low stretch materials are used for racing sails, whereas reinforced Dacron is used for cruising sails since dacron withstands sunlight much better over time than the more exotic materials. So, while I used to plan for a racing sail to last 5 years, these sails should last as long as I'm the keeper (steward) of the boat.
Batteries
The batteries on the boat seem to be a continuing problem. When the boat was surveyed, I was told that the boat had 4 good batteries.
It turned out that the next spring the boat had good batteries because I replaced them all; the two deep cycle batteries were bad and the other two were car batteries.
There are three problems with the current configuration. First, the batteries are wet cell, meaning that I can count on only about 30% of the rated wattage,otherwise you wearout the batteries quickly through sulfation. Second, the batteries only last a relatively short time, 3 to 5 years. Third, the batteries are Group 27 batteries, the same size as found in many automobiles. These are relatively low power for extended cruises, though I suspect that they are just fine for day sailing and weekend cruising.
None of these are not good characteristics for bluewater sailing. So, after a good deal of research, I've decided to get the Group 31 Oasis FireFly batteries. First, according to my research, it can be fully discharged and then can be fully recharged with no ill effects; and it can do this repeatedly. Second, it is expected to last 10 years. Third, it stores (some) more wattage than the wet cell group 27 batteries. So it addresses all of the problems.
It turned out that the next spring the boat had good batteries because I replaced them all; the two deep cycle batteries were bad and the other two were car batteries.
There are three problems with the current configuration. First, the batteries are wet cell, meaning that I can count on only about 30% of the rated wattage,otherwise you wearout the batteries quickly through sulfation. Second, the batteries only last a relatively short time, 3 to 5 years. Third, the batteries are Group 27 batteries, the same size as found in many automobiles. These are relatively low power for extended cruises, though I suspect that they are just fine for day sailing and weekend cruising.
None of these are not good characteristics for bluewater sailing. So, after a good deal of research, I've decided to get the Group 31 Oasis FireFly batteries. First, according to my research, it can be fully discharged and then can be fully recharged with no ill effects; and it can do this repeatedly. Second, it is expected to last 10 years. Third, it stores (some) more wattage than the wet cell group 27 batteries. So it addresses all of the problems.
AIS
Another safety item that makes a lot of sense is an Automatic Identification System (AIS). This is a component in a international system that identifies a vessel (using the MMSI number) and its exact location. All other vessels equipped with AIS in the area will see this boat. With today's chartplotters the location will show up on the screen.
While there are many AIS units on the market, many reviews and opinions from friends favor the Vesper units, so I suspect that I will be installing such a unit over the winter.
While there are many AIS units on the market, many reviews and opinions from friends favor the Vesper units, so I suspect that I will be installing such a unit over the winter.
Life Raft
Everyone that I've talked with and all the books I've read recommend a life raft as a must have on a blue water racing or cruising boat. While I'm not sure why they are so expensive or why they can't be built more dependable (they have to be sent back for recertification every 3 years; which is also very expensive), I will likely get one before I start sailing on my blue water fantasy trip.
Hull
Unfortunately, when I acquired her, the hull of the Calypso was and is filled with spider cracks as you can see in the following picture.
Spider Cracks in the Hull
While the surveyor assured me that the hull was not weakened and that no water had entered through the cracks, nonetheless I feel that it's necessary to have them repaired before I start having problems (I'm planning to keep the boat the rest of my sailing career and that is the reason for the refit). So Milford Boat Works will repair and refinish the topside, the hull between the waterline and the deck.
The second problem with the hull is that I could never find out what bottom paint the previous owner had used. I found through experience, that even paints from the same manufacturer, let alone different manufacturers, are incompatible. As you can see in the following picture, the paint was in poor shape.
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| The Bottom of the Boat in 2014 |
What this really means is that it worked OK for the 3 to 5 months the boat is in the water. If I sail it for 6 to 8 months, there could be major problems. So the bottom needs to be soda ballasted, barrier coated and repainted.
These are the major projects for the completion of the refit--there are many minor ones as well. So stay tuned.
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